There’s something about Mongolia that always pulled me in: vast, grounding, and quietly powerful.
When I set out across the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky, I packed only the essentials: my curiosity, a power bank, warm layers (because, yes, Mongolia is cold), and a bag of my Pumpkin Spice Specialty Coffee.
What followed was a journey that reshaped how I think about stillness, adventure, and the simple magic of a good morning brew.
1. Western Mongolia: Raw Beauty & Timeless Traditions
📍 Location & Landscape
After days of research and far too many YouTube videos, one place stood out: Altai Tavan Bogd National Park - a region of glaciers, high peaks, and centuries-old nomadic culture.
To reach it, we flew from Ulaanbaatar to Ölgii and booked a late-season 5-day adventure through BT Mongolia.
Our team:
- Jupar – guide
- Sultan – driver
- Aisulu – cook (her name means “beautiful as the moon” in Kazakh 🌙)
- One legendary 1980s Land Rover with enough gear to survive five days in the wild
- My husband and I
Western Mongolia is where mountains seem to hold up the sky. The Altai range stretches like an ancient fortress, home to golden eagles, nomadic herders, and landscapes that change with every mile.
Khoton Lake & First Nights in a Ger
On day one, we reached the stunning Khoton Lake, where we stayed with a Kazakh nomadic family in a traditional ger.
I had dreamed for months about sleeping in a ger, and it didn’t disappoint: roomy, warm when the fire burns, and… a freezer when it doesn’t. Charming in its own way.
Frozen Waterfalls & Off-Road Wandering
Day two took us to Baga Turgen Waterfall, frozen into a fairytale of ice. Despite cold toes and a snowy hike, it was absolutely worth it.
After that, we roamed the steppe off-road; no paths, just wild terrain.
We stumbled on warrior stones, ancient carved statues surrounded by rows of rocks - each rock marking a victory in battle. Some warriors had a lot of victories.
Snow, Rivers & True Rugged Mongolia
What followed on day three was one of the wildest drives I’ve ever experienced: We pushed the car when it got stuck in deep snow, crossed wide frozen rivers, and were constantly surrounded by mind-blowing, ever-changing landscapes.
Along the way, we passed massive herds of livestock and visited a Kazakh cemetery that looked like a full-on town. (One tomb—the final resting place of a man who reportedly owned 10,000 horses—was the size of a house!) 
We reached the Ranger Station—only to find it closed for the season.
So we stayed with another nomadic family instead. Unscheduled. Unfiltered. Unforgettable.
Kazakh Hospitality & Ancient Petroglyphs
On day four, we explored the Petroglyphic Complex of the Mongolian Altai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with ancient rock carvings depicting hunters, animals, and life from thousands of years ago.
We spent the night with an incredibly kind Kazakh family, sharing laughter and a delicious traditional meal — a perfect end to a day packed with culture, history, and stunning scenery.
Eagle Hunting & Final Rides
Day five was pure magic:
Horseback riding across the steppe and a live golden eagle hunting demonstration.
Watching the bond between hunter and eagle felt like witnessing history in motion. The eagle’s precision was unreal—like something from another world.
We returned to Ölgii exhausted, frozen, and absolutely blown away.
👥 People & Culture
Western Mongolia is primarily Kazakh. Herders welcomed us with warm salty milk tea and traditional food.
Here, you don’t need to announce your arrival; you just show up.
🌤️ Weather & Atmosphere
Mid-October in the Altai means unpredictable weather: sun, snow, silence. Most days hovered in the 20s °F or lower.
It’s rough. And real.
💸 Cost & Practicalities
Most guesthouses or ger stays cost $20–$40 USD (often bundled in tours).
Independently traveling here is difficult—the terrain is extreme and roads are theoretical—so hiring a driver is the smartest choice.
🏕️ Adventure Factor
Visiting in the off-season meant the first snow had already arrived.
Many nomads had moved their herds, and roads were risky.
At one point, our guide asked,
“Are you up for an adventure?” Hold my coffee—always!
We crossed three mountain passes, shattered ice on frozen rivers to drive through, and ate the coolest lunch of our lives in the middle of nowhere.
We didn’t see a single other person all day.
☕ Coffee Moments
Since Mongolians (especially in the west) don’t drink coffee, I brewed my own every morning with my Aeropress.
Pumpkin Spice Specialty Coffee never tasted better than in a ger filled with stove smoke and crisp mountain air.
What We Learned
- Western Mongolia isn’t for everyone—you trade comfort for authenticity.
- No running water, no bathrooms, no stores. What you carry is what you have.
- Nomads are self-sufficient; livestock is life.
- Change is coming: paved roads, migration to Kazakhstan, and infrastructure development.
Go as soon as possible, while the region is still raw and rugged.
2. Eastern Mongolia: Gorkhi-Terelj, Kharkhorin & Ulaanbaatar
📍 Location & Landscape
Eastern Mongolia stretches endlessly: rolling steppe, camels, horses, and that unmistakable Genghis Khan energy.
We explored Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, visited the Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex, and the Hoelun Statue (honoring his mother).
We ran Olle Trails #2 and #3, visited Turtle Rock, and realized the area is far more tourist-ready than the west: A-frame cabins, ger resorts, photo-op animals. Beautiful but less wild.
Kharkhorin: Former Capital of the Mongol Empire
Our trip to Kharkhorin began with… a flat tire and no spare.
Eight hours of waiting later (luckily with snacks, warmth, and some patience), we continued.
We explored:
- Turtle Rocks (there are so many!)
- The famous Penis Stone (historic fertility symbol)
- Kharkhorin Museum
- Erdene Zuu Monastery (1585—oldest in Mongolia)
- The place of ancient Karakorum
- The Monument of the Mongolian States
And yes, coffee gear came along.
We also sampled local cafés… for balance.
On the drive back: another flat tire. But only a two-hour delay this time, thanks to our guesthouse host.
Before returning to Ulaanbaatar, we stopped at the Mini-Gobi Desert, a tiny slice of dune landscape.
Ulaanbaatar
The coldest capital in the world.
Smoggy, chaotic, but full of heart and culture.
We explored what we could in our short stay—and definitely felt the -13°C bite.
👥 People & Culture
People here reminded me of coffee growers in Peru or Colombia—rooted, humble, resilient.
Not overly warm at first glance though, but deeply real.
🌤️ Weather
Eastern Mongolia can hit -40°F in winter.
We only got a small taste: around 0°F in mid-October.
💸 Cost & Comfort
Much more tourist-friendly and affordable than the West.
Also: don’t skip the cashmere.
Mongolia is the world’s #2 producer, and the prices are a dream by Western standards.
☕ Coffee on the Steppe
Let’s just say Mongolia isn’t known for coffee culture.
Good thing we always travel with Tropical Bear coffee.
Morning rituals matter—especially in freezing temperatures.
3. Conclusion: What Mongolia Teaches About Coffee & Life
Traveling across Mongolia reminded me that great journeys and great coffee share the same soul: simplicity, presence, and savoring each moment.
Is Mongolia worth visiting? Absolutely.
Should you go soon? Yes, especially Western Mongolia before modernization changes it.
Should you bring Tropical Bear Coffee? :) If you're not into yak milk tea… 100% yes.
You can watch videos from each day of our journey on YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok.
Have questions about planning your trip?
Email me at contact@tropicalbearcoffee.com. I wish I knew someone who’d been there before me!
Happy Brewing,
Erica
