After exploring Georgia, Armenia, and Turkey earlier this month, we continued our May Coffee Adventure through five more countries: Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, and Finland. It was a journey filled with vivid landscapes, unexpected culinary discoveries, and, of course, a growing appreciation for the specialty coffee scene across northern Europe.
Warsaw, Poland – An Overnight Surprise
Poland was, essentially, a long layover for us, but Warsaw left a strong impression in a short amount of time. We spent the night downtown and managed to explore the city in the evening and again the following morning.
I was surprised by how green, modern, and active Warsaw is. The architecture blends old and new beautifully, and the public transportation is seamless. It’s a vivid, energetic city with lots of open space and people out walking, biking, or enjoying cafés.
In the heart of downtown, I found a gem for coffee lovers: Pożegnanie z Afryką, a specialty coffee shop with a truly impressive collection of coffee-related goods—coffee pots, mugs, grinders—everything you can imagine. I ordered a traditional coffee with ginger, served in a generous 300 ml cup. The café described it as a drink that “warms you up internally, facilitates digestion, and stops the onset of a cold.” It’s recommended without sugar. It was rich, spicy, and comforting. It was a very different coffee experience. The price was 48 PLN (about $13), but the atmosphere and uniqueness made it worthwhile.
Exploring the Baltics by Road
I had always been curious about the Baltic countries, and this May, we finally made it happen. We flew into Riga, Latvia, and from there we rented a car and began our road trip across Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania.
Tallinn, Estonia – Breweries, Towers, and a Memorable Café
One of our first stops was Tallinn, and it was everything I hoped it would be: vibrant, clean, and architecturally beautiful. The Old Town is especially charming, with colorful buildings and tall towers that give the city a fairytale feel.
We explored on foot, wandered into a few breweries and cafés, and tried to take in as much as possible in a short time. The vibe of the city is both relaxed and refined, a perfect combination for a traveler who loves both coffee and culture.
Just before leaving Tallinn, we visited a place that stood out from my pre-trip café research: RØST Café. The first thing that hit me when we walked in was the smell of fresh baking and roasted coffee. There was a line of people waiting (always a good sign), and the open kitchen showed women making pastries right in front of us.
We ordered coffee and pastries and were not disappointed. This place was a highlight, not only because of the quality of the food and drink but because of the whole experience. If you’re a specialty coffee lover traveling through Tallinn, this café should be high on your list.
A Day Trip to Helsinki, Finland
One of the coolest discoveries of this trip was that you can take a ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki for a day trip. It’s only about 2–2.5 hours each way. Naturally, we had to do it.
In Helsinki, we visited the oldest café in the city, Ekberg, which has been serving pastries and coffee since 1852. It's classic, stylish, and a piece of living history. A nice way to ease into the day.
But the real highlight for us was Rams Roasters, a café and roastery that served some of the best specialty coffee and pastries we’ve had anywhere. I ordered the Himalayan pineapple pour-over, which was bright, juicy, and beautifully brewed. Paired with avocado toast, it was a refreshing and energizing lunch. My husband had a dirty chai latte and one of their famous cinnamon buns. Every bite and sip was delicious.
In a sweet coincidence, I learned that Rams Roasters is owned by the same couple who used to run my favorite cookie place in Romania about 11 years ago. It was such a pleasant surprise to reconnect with their amazing hospitality and quality.
I’m not just biased! This café truly offers impeccable service and excellent coffee. If you ever visit Helsinki, check them out.
Before heading back to the ferry, I couldn’t resist trying a traditional Finnish dish: salmon soup with black rye bread. It was hearty, flavorful, and something I would order again.
Gauja National Park & Sigulda, Latvia – Forest Trails and Cozy Cafés
After Tallinn and Helsinki, we returned to Latvia to explore Gauja National Park, one of the most beautiful natural areas I’ve ever seen. With sandstone cliffs, medieval castles, and lush forests along the river, it’s a dream for hikers and nature lovers.
We stayed in Sigulda, often called the “Switzerland of Latvia.” It’s a small ski town known for bobsledding and surrounded by trails. Our cabin, called Bear House, was cozy and had everything we needed. We even had two ponies grazing outside, which we enjoyed watching from the window. 😊 The walk into town was about 1.5 miles and very scenic.
Even though it rained during our time in Gauja, we didn’t let that stop us. We spent a full day trail running, and just when we were cold and wet, we found the perfect café: Turists Café. This place was a lifesaver: serving warm, affordable food, good coffee, and best of all, a wood fire stove where we could dry our clothes. It was simple, heartfelt, and exactly what we needed.
Anykščiai, Lithuania – Beet Soup, Big Swings & Beer Ice Cream
From Sigulda, we drove south into Lithuania, heading to the little town of Anykščiai. The area is peaceful, surrounded by forests, and a great place to relax.
We visited the Tree Top Walking Path, a suspended bridge among the treetops, and saw the famous Puntukas Stone—the second-largest boulder in Lithuania, carried here by glaciers from Finland thousands of years ago. It’s a huge, impressive reminder of nature’s history.
In town, I had the chance to try cold beet soup, bright pink and incredibly refreshing, and one of the biggest swings I’ve ever been on.
The culinary surprise here was the handmade beer ice cream, something I had never tried before, and to my surprise, I liked it! It had a light malt flavor and a smooth texture. I wouldn’t have guessed that beer and dessert would go together so well.
Back in Riga – Crumble Cake and One Kind Smile
We returned to Riga to close out our weeklong Baltic adventure. The Old Town is beautiful, if a bit touristy, with ornate architecture and a vibrant food scene.
One café worth mentioning is Crumble Cake, where we had exactly that: crumble cake and a delicious cappuccino. The place had a warm, cozy feel and, surprisingly, the barista there was the only person in the Baltics who smiled at us! That moment stood out in contrast to the general vibe we felt elsewhere in the Baltics.
Reflections & Coffee Traveler Takeaways
Here are a few things that stood out from this leg of the trip:
- ☀️ Baltic summers are surreal. The sun barely sets, and it’s never truly dark. It’s energizing and strange; you don’t feel like sleeping! The flip side is that winter days are extremely short (sunrise at 9:00 AM, sunset at 3:00 PM).
- 😐 Cultural note: I hesitated to mention this, but in most places we visited in this part of Europe, especially in the Baltic, we often felt unwelcome. Coming from a place where people smile and greet strangers, this felt cold and distant. It made me even more grateful for the warmth back home.
- ☕ Coffee culture is alive and well. Despite the cultural reserve, we found great specialty coffee everywhere: filter coffee, espresso bars, cozy independent cafés, and even roasteries. As a coffee traveler, this was very delightful.
- 🏛️ Architectural surprise: If you, like me, expect the Baltics to look "communist" due to their Soviet past, think again. They’ve preserved and restored their architectural beauty incredibly well.
✅ Top recommendations:
- Take the ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki – a full-day adventure that’s easy and fun
- Hike in Gauja National Park – stunning scenery, peaceful trails, and a wood-fired café to warm up
Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or curiosities about my travels. I’m always happy to chat about coffee adventures.
Until next time,
Happy Brewing! ☕🌍
Erica
